Sutherland in the Scottish Highlands is sometimes described as Europe’s last wilderness. Taking a road trip through the heart of Sutherland shows why. There’s nobody there. It’s wild, windy and empty, apart from some hardy souls who obviously enjoy their own company.
Our video shows a selection of views as we tour inland, firstly East from Helmsdale up beside the Helmsdale River. We go through Kildonan, the site of the Highlands Gold Rush, and Kinbrace, into Mackay Country. If your last name is Mackay this is likely where your ancestors came lived, before being forced to leave during the Highland Clearances.
On past Rosal Township, the memorial village we arrive at Altnaharra, the most remote hamlet in the area. Unfortunately we didn’t have time to get lunch at the Altnaharra Inn. we’ll do that another time, and maybe even spend the night in the UK’s most remote hotel. When the weather gets really bad the BBC news programmes always call the Altnaharra Inn to ask what it’s like out there. The last time I heard this the man at the hotel described the hotel as being cut off by 3 feet of snow and temperatures low as minus 25 centigrade. “We’re not worried” he said – “We’ve got plenty of beer”!
The the road goes south past Ben Klibreck (shrouded in cloud this day) and ultimately the most remote pub anywhere.
The Crask Inn is famous amongst walkers and sportsmen, and tourers, because it literally is the only building between Altnaharra and Lairg, where our movie finishes.
This journey takes around 5 hours with a stop off to visit Rosal Township, and takes in less than on third of Sutherland. As you’ll see there’s no problems with traffic jams:-) but the single track roads can be slow to drive.
The rest of the county, and particularly in the North West provides simply spectacular scenery with lochs and hills and wonderfully remote yet hospitable spots like Oldshoremore beach.
We’ll cover the rest in 3 separate articles with video’s, when we get the chance.
In the meantime nobody should visit the Highlands without coming out here. Even though there’s nothing, its a very special place. In fact that’s probably why.
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